Iditarod 2011

It's like an Alaskan Mardi Gras, this northern ritual-slash-celebration of a way of life now rapidly fading. It's also a celebration of life itself, commemorating the "serum run" when mushers rushed diptheria serum from Anchorage to Nome in 1925, to prevent the deaths of children from that disease which once terrorized whole populations.

It's the Iditarod, this race between teams of sled dogs - part muscle and willpower, part strategy, and all about endurance, both canine and human. It's 1,150 miles across snow, tundra, occasionally a barren and rocky patch, frozen lakes, and through woods both heavy and sparse.

Sled dog racing is the official sport of Alaska, and is sometimes difficult for Outsiders to comprehend. But just hang around, and by the second year it will catch you up in the strange but exhilarating competition between dogs, and the men and women who love them.

Here's what it's like at the starting line, downtown. The dogs are so anxious to run that they leap vertically, because they can't yet go forward. This brief scene is from the Fur Rendezvous' sled dog sprint races, a few years back; watch how the dogs begin to lunge as they hear the announcer counting down. It's a sound they know well:

And here are some of the racers from this morning's ceremonial start, from a spot some 12 blocks south of downtown. This first one is DeeDee Jonrowe, a perennial favorite who never won but has placed second three times, who races in pink because she is also a breast cancer survivor:

And yes, that's my voice you hear.

Jenny and I staked out a spot at the Chester Creek Sports Complex before the race. It was about -5 degrees at 9:30 this morning, making it rather brisk for just standing around. Most folks mill rather smartly in these temps, or stand very near any available fire or stove, to stay warm.

Here is a bit of the scene:

The track on which the teams run through Anchorage. City workers began hauling snow from caches on the mountainsides above town, from 4 pm Friday until the wee hours today.

Tailgaters set up their hunting-camp gear and began cooking breakfast for their crew. The fire pit in the foreground was welcome when hands and fingers got too cold.

The morning sun (about 9:30 a.m.) to the southeast.

The teams begin running past us, heading south toward Chester Creek. From there (about 1/8 mile south of this position), they turn east and run to the Campbell Creek Airstrip. There they stop, break down the gear & load it back onto their trucks for the official start at 2 pm tomorrow, in Willow, AK.

Another team.

Notice that the dogs are only trotting, since the race is not yet begun. This is ceremonial only.

The mushers & their crews will have a huge banquet in Wasilla at the Iditarod HQ tonight, and begin the race proper, tomorrow. It will be just over 8 days from that point until the winner crosses the finish line in Nome.